Seashore Trails II

 

Southwest Coast, Maui, Hawaii

Puu Olai “Red Hill” Trail: [June 2004] Red Hill is a 360 foot weathered volcanic tuft that protrudes into the deep blue sea at the south end of Wailea, Maui. At the base of the cinder cone are tidepools and wicked lava formations, both begging to be explored by the intrepid hiker—that isn’t all that awaits either—the really adventurous can hike up the side of the red cone to panoramic views of Lanai, Molokini, and Kahoolawe. We began our hike at the Maui Prince Hotel and continued walking down the Makena Alanui Road until we found the access trail to Oneuli “Black Sand” Beach—from there we just scrambled over the lava rocks to climb up on Red Hill. The views from the top are fantastic, and the hike along the beach to get there is equally amazing.

NBH Tip: Before you set out for Red Hill, consult a tide table in order to time your hike with low tide—that way you can get the most out of exploring the tide pools.

 

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve, Maui, Hawaii

Southern Trail: [June 2004] The Southern Trail is an excellent way to spend an afternoon exploring a rugged area of aa lava. The Trail is located on the southwest slopes of Haleakala in the Ahihi-Kinau Reserve, which protects the jagged lava fields of the 1790 eruption. The area at first seems inhospitable, and it can be, but the coastline has hundreds of tidepools, and spectacular views of La Perouse Bay. You will find the trailhead located off of Wailea Alanui Road—from here follow the sandy trail through a kiawe forest—there should be a fence line on your left. Ahead, lies the inhospitable lava field—when we were hiking through this area we encountered a lady who had blood dripping down her leg, she had wrapped it with an old t-shirt but the blood was still flowing. She hiked past us so fast we didn’t have time to offer assistance, but she was with two other guys. As we emerged from the forest we saw the serrated chunks of lava that spread all the way to the ocean, and in a few more steps we found the site of the woman’s agony—a particularly sharp piece of lava was jutting up off the trail and pools of blood filled its crevices—that poor woman had snagged her leg just a few feet from the trailhead, but hopefully she wasn’t injured too badly. I included this story in our write-up to illustrate just how inhospitable, not to mention dangerous, hiking on lava can be to your health. However, despite the dangers the view is worth the risk—your reward for braving this desolate landscape is remarkable views of the azure bay, with several inlets perfect for snorkeling. This trail is 1.6 miles roundtrip and will take the average hiker around an hour, longer if you bring along your snorkel gear for a dip.

NBH Tip: Bring plenty of water and consider wearing long pants for the hike over the lava—that way if you happen to fall you might be a little less exposed. If you plan on snorkeling, pick up a laminated fish identification card at any of the gift shops (Wal-Mart has the best prices) and take it along to aid in identifying the parade of fishes that will pass before your mask.

 

Wai'anapanapa State Park, Maui, Hawaii

Wai’anapanapa Black Sand Beach: [June 1999, June 2004] The hike to the beach begins at Wai’anapanapa State Park just before mile marker 32 on The Road to Hana—from the overlook follow the paved path to the right down to where you will see a fork in the trail. At this point, turn left and descend down to the beautiful Black Sand Beach—you can end your hike here if you like, and just enjoy the contrast of the black sand and white sea foam, or you can cross the sand to the cliff-side path that will take you to an immense lava field.

NBH Tip: If you want to see the caves of Wai’anapanapa follow the paved path on the left side of the parking area—the trail leads to two freshwater caves in a lush grotto.

 

Old Ninilchik Village, Alaska

Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church: [July 2004] The green and white Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church sits on a hill overlooking Cook Inlet above the historic village of Ninilchik—getting a closer look at this quaint little church requires a climb up the hill. The Old Russian Church was built in 1901 and is topped with the unique spires and crosses of the Russian Orthodox faith. To see it up close, just locate the trail near the gift shop along the road into town—the climb is only slightly steep and is less then 0.5 miles roundtrip. Along the trail you will get great views of the sea and of the town, and once at the top you can explore the church and the grounds where many patrons are buried.

NBH Tip: As you hike the footpath to the top of the hill be on the lookout for Private Property signs and respect the rights of others by staying on the well worn path.

 

 

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

Potter Marsh: [July 2004] Located at the southern end of the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge you will find a 1500ft boardwalk that extends out into Potter Marsh—an excellent place to stretch your legs as you make the drive along the Turnagain Arm. Potter Marsh is also an excellent place to view wildlife—the marsh hosts a number of bird species including, yellowlegs, kingfishers, terns, gulls, loons, geese, and eagles. You might also spot moose, muskrats, and beavers as you make your way along the boardwalk.

NBH Tip: Interpretive signs along the boardwalk provide valuable information about wildlife and habitat. One good wildlife tip—birding is better in the early morning and on days when the wind is calm.

Homer Spit, Alaska

Beluga Slough Boardwalk/Bishop’s Beach: [July 2004] Beluga Slough has a great little boardwalk located in the city of Homer, Alaska that can be accessed via the Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center. The boardwalk is 0.38 miles from the visitor center to Bishop’s Beach—along the way, you will pass through a pristine coastal environment, and you will have the opportunity to encounter some great wildlife—keep an eye out for bald eagles, herons, and a multitude of other sea birds. In addition to the birds, you might also see moose grazing in the slough—and if you visit from June through September, you will notice the beautiful blooms of fireweed that line the length of the boardwalk. Your hike will end/begin on Bishop’s Beach where the hiker can walk for several miles in either direction along the coast—Bishop’s Beach can also be accessed from the Sterling Highway at Main Street. We hiked the beach from both areas, Beluga Slough and the street access, and both are delightful.  From Main Street we used a rope to shimmy down the bank to the beach—Bishop’s Beach is a wonderful place for beach-combing, as shells are often scattered all along the sand.

NBH Tip: Bald eagles are often spotted walking along Bishop’s Beach where they like to feed along the mud flats. The beach also offers great views of Kachemak Bay, but remember to check tide tables before starting off on a long hike.

 

Theler Wetlands, Washington

Rock Wall Entrance/Alder Cedar Swamp/River Estuary Trail: [August 2004] The Rock Wall trail leads down from the Theler Center parking lot to the Hood Canal Watershed Project Center—at the head of the trail stands "Nature's Gate". The gate is more a piece of artwork than a gate, the sculpture was created and built by John Olsen who said this about his creation, “The gate depicts the Connection between God, the cosmic energy, and our planet with its many natural wonders.” After passing through the beautiful gate, you enter the wetlands forest where tall alder and cedar trees dominate the scenery. In just a few more paces, you cross over a boardwalk that spans the swamp and ends at the Project Center Complex. From here, you have your choice of over four miles of trails, each one offering a different view of the wetlands. We began our exploration on the Alder Cedar Swamp Trail, where a wooden boardwalk curves through the underbrush and swampland of the forest—midway through the trail is an informational kiosk about the flora and fauna of the wetlands. The trail ends at the access road where salt marsh meets forested wetlands. From here, we continued our hike by picking up the 1.5 mile River Estuary Trail—this path meanders past ponds thick with grasses and cattails, past views of the Olympic Mountains, the Union River, and the Hood Canal, and often offers a chance to view many species of birds. In fact, the ponds are a great place to watch for herons and geese, so bring your binoculars. While hiking and taking in the great views we were also treated to some fresh blackberries—the berries were in season in August and they were growing profusely along the sides of the trail, thus offering the hiker a perfect natural treat on a summer day. Before reaching the river, the trail goes through an archway created by domestic plum trees—it then follows the dike around the Johnson Family Farm. Finally, you arrive at the mouth of the Union River, where you might see river otters. The trail then forks as it enters the woods. The left fork leads to an overlook of the river, and the right fork ends at a meadow where there is currently an active archeological dig—return to the Project Center the same way you came.

 

NBH Tip: The Project Center was closed the day we hiked the trails, but it looked like an amazing place—we were at least able to see everything outside the building, including a skeleton of a whale. In addition, all of the trees around the center are identified, so be sure to walk around the grounds. Also, be sure to bring insect repellant for this hike—the mosquitoes can be quite thick in the wetlands.

 

 

 

Princess Alexandra National Park, Turks and Caicos Islands

Grace Bay to Turtle Cove: [December 2004] One of the best ways to appreciate a beautiful beach is to walk along its shores, and while we were in the Turks and Caicos Islands we hiked along one of the most beautiful coastlines in the Caribbean—Grace Bay. Grace Bay is located on the island of Providenciales, and it is constantly ranked as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches—with its pure white sand and clear blue water it is easy to see why it continues to please. We began our hike near Club Med and made our way 4 miles down the beach to Smith’s Reef, near Turtle Cove. We carried our snorkel gear with us on the hike, so that we might jump in the water whenever we wanted—there are plenty of great snorkel opportunities along this hike, including Whitehouse Reef (aka Coral Gardens) and Smith’s Reef. Both offer excellent coral formations and marine life—Coral Gardens even has an underwater trail for snorkelers to follow. The tropical scenery along this hike is spectacular—the water is crystal-clear and one of the most beautiful shades of blue in the Caribbean. In addition, the sand is perfect for beach hiking—pure white and soft with an occasional shell for you to stop and investigate. Walk as far as you like along this stunning beach, but just remember you have to walk back to your starting point unless you want to take a taxi. Our hike was 4 miles one way, making for an 8 mile roundtrip hike.

NBH Tip: Start your hike in the morning and you should arrive at Turtle Cove in time for lunch—find a beach access near Smith’s Reef and make your way towards the road that leads to the marina, here you will find a great little restaurant called the Sharkbite Bar and Grill. They have great burgers and fries and a chips and salsa appetizer that is out of this world—you can even sit out on the deck that overlooks the harbor, a perfect post hike stop with a view.

 

Rock Iguana Nature Trail: [December 2004] Little Water Cay, a tiny island just northwest of Providenciales, is home to some 2000 rare and endangered rock iguanas.  The Turks and Caicos National Trust has developed two boardwalk trails, which give the visitor the chance to see these endemic lizards, as well as ospreys and other birds, while protecting both the animals and their delicate habitat. A guide leads you down the trail as he talks about the iguanas and their natural history—our guide had names for all of his iguana friends, and he would point out each individual as we passed them on the trail. He would also feed them sea grapes, a natural food source picked right from the trees, when we stopped along the boardwalk.

NBH Tip: If you take a guided tour to the island as part of a snorkel cruise, etc, be sure to pay your entrance fee at their office at the Leeward Marina—that way you don’t have to have cash with you, and it avoids the hassle of paying the guide.

 

Buckeye Lake State Park, Ohio

Cranberry Bog Boardwalk: [June 2005] Cranberry Island, located in Buckeye Lake, originally surfaced as a bog mat in 1830. Since then it has been dramatically decreasing in size, dwindling from 50 acres down to its current 11 acres. The Cranberry Bog Mat is the only survivor from the reservoir creation that impounded the Big Swamp in 1830. Everything was destroyed except for the youngest, and therefore most buoyant, sections of the bog mat. Most of the swamp forest disappeared beneath the waters, all except the 50 acre upper segment along the north shore that stretched and expanded like a big sponge. This portion rose 6 feet with the new water level. No longer did the floating bog mat surround the glacial lake, now the lake surrounded the bog, making Cranberry Bog the only known occurrence of its kind in the world, and you can hike the boardwalk that traverses this special island nature preserve. Access to the preserve is restricted to small, supervised groups or by special permit from www.ohiodnr.com/dnap. The established boardwalk trail now takes less than 15 minutes to walk, but along your short hike you will be treated to views of not only an amazing and rare eco-system, but to some beautiful and rare plants as well. Among the plants you will see are rare orchids and carnivorous plants that remain as living tributes to the ice age such as the northern pitcher plant, grass-pink (calopogon) orchids, rose pogonia orchids, sphagnum moss, sundew plants, cinnamon ferns, ground nut, winter holly, arctic cotton grass, and of course cranberries.

NBH Tip: The Ohio Department of Natural Resources holds an annual lottery for spaces to tour Ohio’s only floating island. The lottery usually becomes available in April or May, the lucky few are notified in early June, and then the tour is in late June to correspond with the blooming of the orchids, and an abundance of other rare plants. Keep in mind that the bog generates its own heat, adding to the ambient hot air temperatures of an Ohio summer. When we visited the thermometer on the bog was topped out at over 120 degrees!

 

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, Bahamas

Shaggy Dog Trail to Boo Boo Hill: [May 2005] The paths and sights of Warderick Wells, the location of the Exuma Land and Sea Park Headquarters, are well worth a visit if you are traveling in the Bahamas. Boo Boo Hill rises to a whopping elevation of 70 feet, a relatively high vantage point in the Exumas that provides great views of the island and its surrounding aquamarine waters. In addition to the great views, you will be intrigued by the pile of boater memorabilia that has accumulated over many years—it is a tradition for boaters to bring a souvenir, usually a wooden plaque that bears the name of their boat, and place it up on Boo Boo Hill.  As you can imagine, the pile has gotten quite large, and you could easily spend all day reading the different signs. However, don’t spend too much time reading because there are other rewarding sights along the trail, including a blow hole and pristine Caribbean beaches. The blow hole is just down the trail from Boo Boo Hill, and if you catch it when the conditions are right it will put on quite a show. Just past the blow hole look for another small trail that leads down to Careen Beach where you can marvel at the hundreds of shades of blue laid out before you—return to park headquarters the way you came, and be sure to feed the bananaquits some sugar right out of the palm of your hand.

NBH Tip:  Either before or after your hike check out the whale skeleton on the beach near the trailhead—this poor creature was killed by ingesting plastic, yet another reason to pick up your trash and anyone else’s you might come across. If you want to know a little bit more about the landscape you are hiking through, stop in the park headquarters and they will give you a self-guiding brochure to use while on your hike that points out the vegetation and features of the land.

 

Staniel Cay, Exuma Chain, Bahamas

Pirate’s Cove: [May 2005] The treasure found along this beautiful hike is more of the scenic variety, rather than a pirate’s loot stashed in a cove, but if you hike this secluded trail you will nonetheless be rewarded. Situated on the south western corner of a small island called Staniel Cay, Pirate’s Cove offers so many great opportunities for hikers. Sandy beaches, towering limestone cliffs that drop straight down to the ocean and serene lagoons perfect for swimming can all be found along this amazing hike. The hike begins at Pirate Cove Beach, a beautiful stretch of sand perfect for sunbathing, and then heads for the limestone cliffs that shelter the beach from the open ocean. Take any path that leads up the side of the cliff (look closely and you will see cairns marking the way) and you will soon be staring down at the crashing ocean waves. Spend some time enjoying the spectacular view, and then head down the far side of the cliff to a small cove. It is here where you will be rewarded with a fantastic aquamarine pool that is just perfect for a swim.

NBH Tip: There are several cliffs around Pirate’s Cove that provide wide-sweeping vistas of the area. In particular, the cliff just on the other side of the pool has incredible views of the ocean, and the top of the cliff is complete with a huge cairn and a statue of the Madonna.

 

Praslin Protected Landscape, St Lucia

Eastern Nature Trail: [January 2006] St Lucia’s east coast offers mile after mile of rugged, untouched Atlantic coastline, and one of the best ways to see this amazing scenery is along the 3.5 mile Eastern Nature Trail—the trail is an out and back, making it 7.0 miles roundtrip, unless you arrange for transportation at the other end. The Eastern Nature Trail, managed by the St Lucian National Trust, is located within the Praslin Protected Landscape. The winding trail runs parallel to the Atlantic, high above the crashing waves, through sparse vegetation and tall grass—can you say chiggers? Unfortunately, we ended up with a few bites, but that’s okay—they only itch for half a year or so—just lovely. We started the trail at its northern entrance near Mandélé, located between the towns of Dennery and Praslin. As you hike you will be amazed by the beautiful vistas—the trail’s high vantage point gives you a bird’s eye view of the jagged cliffs and powerful ocean. We enjoyed our hike through the countryside, casually making our way about a mile down the trail before turning around. If you choose to walk the entire trail, you will end up at the picturesque Fregate Islands Nature Reserve.

NBH Tip: If you prefer a guided trip, the St Lucia National Trust has put together a package which includes lunch, the services of a tour guide, refreshments on the trail and the boat ride to Praslin Island. For more information, contact the National Trust Eastern Area Office at 453 1495/5005, or ask at your hotel service desk once you arrive. 

 

Virgin Islands National Park, St. John, USVI

Francis Bay Trail: [December 2000] The trail to Francis Bay, located in the beautiful Virgin Islands National Park on the island of St. John, leads the hiker past estate ruins, a mangrove forest and brackish pond, ending at the picturesque Francis Bay Beach. First, the trail enters a dry scrub forest where you will then walk by the ruins of the Francis Bay Estate House—this old house in a state of disrepair and is quite dangerous, so do not attempt to explore the interior. Instead, admire the exterior from a safe distance—of particular interest are the intricate balcony type structure. In addition to the estate house, the renovated stone building at the beginning of the trail now serves as a National Park Service storage house. The two dates, 1814 and 1911, inscribed on the structure refer to the original completion and subsequent restoration of the building. After viewing the ruins, continue hiking up a small hill, stopping to investigate the intriguing fauna such as the astoundingly large succulents along the trail’s edge. Once at the top of the hill, you will enter the mangrove forest, complete with a boardwalk that keeps you above the water of the brackish pond. This area is especially good for viewing birds. As you hike along the boardwalk, keep a watch for white-cheeked pintail ducks, smooth-billed ani, and mangrove cuckoo. When you have finished exploring the mangrove, continue along the trail to your final destination—Francis Bay Beach. The beach is a popular place for snorkeling and beachcombing, and it was our favorite part of the hike. We especially enjoyed the scenery, complete with a colorful red fishing boat set against a backdrop of white sand and cobalt blue water. Once you have enjoyed the beach to its fullest, return to the trailhead the way you came for an easy and enjoyable 0.5 mile hike.

NBH Tip: The low altitude of the island makes hiking the trails of St. John some of the hottest in the Caribbean—so be prepared to sweat, and you might also consider cooling off in the water of Francis Bay Beach.

 

Mono Lake Tufa State Reserve, California

South Tufa Trail: [September 1993, June 2000] The South Tufa Trail, a mere1.2 miles roundtrip, is a leisurely one to two hour loop hike along the shores of Mono Lake—one of the great landscapes of the American West. Mono Lake, known for its unusual tufa towers, is rich with plant and animal life, and it sits in one of the most scenic areas of the country, cradled in a glacier-carved canyon, surrounded by the snowy peaks of the Sierras. One of the highlights of this trail is, of course, getting to see the tufa towers up close—tufas are limestone pillars that rise from the lake as spectacular towering formations. The hike begins at the kiosk, where the trail proceeds through hip-high stands of rabbitbrush, tumbleweed, and sagebrush. As you hike through this area watch for the hawk moth, a moth the size of a hummingbird that sips nectar from the plants with a curled proboscis! Soon the trail reaches the shores of Mono Lake, where you might be unnerved to see clouds of little black flies swarming about, but take heart, the flies are harmless insects called alkali flies. The lake itself also bears examination, take a close look at the water and you might see tiny brine shrimp, otherwise known as sea monkeys, teeming in the salty water (the lake is three times saltier than the ocean). The combination of the shrimp and the flies attracts several species of migratory birds, hence the lake’s appeal to birdwatchers. Shortly, the trail turns inland at a small bay where a sign directs you back to the parking area.

NBH Tip: Photographers come from all over the world to capture the interplay of light, desert, and water found at this majestic landscape, and hikers alike enjoy exploring some of the best examples of tufa towers in North America.

Mono Lake Revisited 2000: