Point Reyes National Seashore, California

Chimney Rock Trail: [August 1994] Point Reyes National Seashore provides the hiker with spectacular views of Drakes Bay, the Pacific Ocean, and of its own pristine, craggy shoreline. A hike down Chimney Rock Trail, a 1.2 mile path along the rocky cliffs, is one of the best ways to enjoy this magnificent landscape. The cliffs, which drop steeply down to the water, offer the perfect vantage point for wildlife watching, particularly whales and elephant seals. We spent several hours enjoying all of the sights of Point Reyes, including a colony of noisy elephant seals and sea lions, ending our day with a magnificent pink sunset.

NBH Tip: The headlands of Point Reyes National Seashore, which extend up to ten miles into the Pacific Ocean, are one of the best places to see migrating gray whales. The whales pass by the seashore between the months of December and April, with the peak times for viewing being mid-January to mid-March, so be sure to head to Chimney Rock during those months for the spectacular parade of giant marine mammals.

Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida

Naval Live Oaks Visitor Center Trail: [August 1995] Naval Live Oaks is a short trail, only 0.75 miles, but it is an excellent way to view some of the native plants and animals found in the Gulf Islands. When we did this hike there were, arachnaphobes beware, golden orb spiders everywhere along the trail. The spiders were up high in the trees and not particularly close to the trail, but they were intimidating nonetheless. We also saw a skink along the trail, which is a lizard type animal, and much less intimidating than the spiders. Along the trail you will also see informative markers, which identify the live oaks, and tell how they were used to build ships. The huge oak trees draped with Spanish moss create an instant "southern" atmosphere that makes this hike particularly appealing.

NBH Tip: Keep looking up! Golden orb spiders call this area home, so you are likely to see one or two as you hike this trail. If you are afraid of spiders, just remember that they are harmless and will not bother you if you don't bother them. Also watch for snakes, and take precautions to avoid chiggers and ticks. Take insect repellant and sunscreen.

Red Sand Beach, Maui, Hawaii

Red Sand Trail: [June 1999] On the island of Maui there exists a hike to an awesome natural wonder, that wonder is Kaihalulu Beach, or Red Sand Beach, and unfortunately you have to bend a few rules to get there, but the reward is well worth the risk. The hidden trail starts near the Hotel Hana Maui in the town of Hana, and the trail does cross private property—hence the risk. Since the trail crosses private property, it can be hard to find the trailhead, but just look for the Hana Community Center, and then head towards the ocean. You will cross a grassy field, and soon you will pass an old Japanese graveyard, at this point just keep heading towards the ocean. The trail to the beach is short, but very narrow and steep, and you have to watch your footing on the loose volcanic cinders and ironwood needles, as this combination makes the trail very slippery, and you definitely don’t want to fall here because the trail follows a ridge high above the ocean.  Along this ridge you will be treated to excellent views of the ocean below, before coming to the slope that leads to Red Sand Beach. When you reach the slope you will be awed by the fantastic view of the Kaihalulu cove with its towering red cliffs, aquamarine water, and fantastic red sand beach.

NBH Tip: Due to the seclusion of this beach, it is often used by those who consider clothing optional. If this type of thing bothers you, then perhaps this is not the hike for you, but if you consider naked snorkelers just another natural wonder, then this hike will be sure to please. Hana is a very open-minded area, and you will meet all sorts of interesting people on this short trail, so just go with the flow man, and enjoy the company and scenery.

 

Red Sand Beach revisited—June 2004       

Cape Flattery, Washington

Cape Flattery Trail: [August 1994] The Cape Flattery Trail, a favorite destination for hikers, is located on the tip of the Olympic Peninsula and it is one of the most beautiful places on the Makah Indian Reservation. In fact, not only is it beautiful, Cape Flattery is the most northwest point of the continental United States. The 0.75 mile trail consists of boardwalk, stone and gravel steps. There are five observation decks, which offer breath taking views of the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary, Tatoosh Island, and to the north across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Vancouver Island. We hiked this trail in 1994 along a muddy, poorly maintained trail, but in1996 the Makah Indians rebuilt the trail, making it possible for visitors to reach their destination through a much safer environment. Waiting for us at the end of the trail was one of the most breathtaking views of the Pacific Northwest, complete with sea otters and seals playing in the rugged surf.

NBH Tip: Cape Flattery is one of the last wilderness beaches left in the United States, and sometimes hikers can catch a glimpse of puffin, cormorants, sea otters, seals, gray whales, orcas, and even humpback whales.

 

Olympic National Park, Washington

Spruce Burl Trail: [August 1994, August 1996, August 2004] This short trail leads the hiker through a spruce forest to the beach, and as you get closer to the ocean you will notice that the Sitka spruce have developed large nodules in their trunks, called burls. The cause of these knobby growths is unknown, but it is thought that they might be from something carried in the ocean spray, or perhaps a virus. When you emerge from the forest you will be at Beach 1, here you will be treated to beautiful beach hiking with spectacular views of sea stacks and tide pools. The tide pools along the Olympic coast teem with life, so be sure to investigate them closely in order see all of the abundant marine animals. One of the first things you will notice about the life in the tide pools and all along the Pacific Coast is the range of colors represented—purple, orange, and red sea stars, or starfish, green sea anemones, purple sea urchins, and white barnacles lend the landscape a splash of color. The NBH crew loves to spend hours at the tide pools, and we hope you enjoy them too.

 

Ruby Beach Trail: [August 1994, August 1996, August 2004] Hike this short trail down to the coast and you will be rewarded with spectacular views of Abbey Island, a huge sea stack with several trees growing on its surface, and of scenic Ruby Beach littered with picturesque driftwood. When you reach the beach, take your time and explore the many alcoves and numerous tide pools at your disposal.

NBH Tip: If you plan to hike on the beach, be sure to carry a tide table and a watch, so that you can eliminate the risk associated with being caught at high tide. The rising water associated with high tide can trap you below cliffs, a fate that has led to many deaths along the Olympic wilderness coast, and also keep in mind that waves can move beach logs, turning them into lethal weapons, which can crush and kill.

 

Assateague National Seashore, Maryland

Life of the Marsh and Life of the Forest Nature Trails: [August 1990, August 1991] These two short, wheelchair accessible half-mile trails consist of boardwalks through the surrounding environments, providing the hiker with a great way to see the local flora and fauna of Assateague National Seashore. If you prefer sand below your feet, as opposed to boardwalks, then head for the beach. There are 19 miles of wild shoreline that you can explore, making this windswept barrier island on the Atlantic Coast a paradise for the outdoor enthusiast. You can hike to the brackish inlets and do some clamming, observe the local wildlife, and then head back to the beach and set up a tent right in the sand. While camping, expect to see wild ponies peeking in the windows of your tent!

NBH Tip: After hiking the trails take a drive down the scenic road. We were lucky enough to happen upon some foxes that were living in the sand dunes. It was such a surprise to see them, because the visitor center did not mention that fox lived in the area. Oh, and a word of warning—if you happen upon any wild ponies while hiking be sure to keep a good distance from them, since wild ponies, while awfully cute, can be dangerous. The ponies do bite and kick, so keep your distance.

 

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Indiana

Mount Baldy: [May 1995] Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore is a wealth of diverse natural resources located within an urban setting, not far from the windy city of Chicago, Illinois. One of the seashore’s best treasures is Mount Baldy, otherwise known as the smoking dune, which is known to retreat approximately five feet inland each year. This fluidity, or constant change of location, has earned Mount Baldy the title of “living” dune. Vegetation, such as marram grasses and cottonwood trees, would normally help protect a dune from erosion—keeping it in place, but the winds from Lake Michigan have proven too powerful a force. Despite the fact that the dune is moving, it can still be climbed head on by intrepid hikers. Mount Baldy rises 123 feet from the shores of Lake Michigan, and a climb to its summit is sure to get your heart pounding, especially if you are new to hiking in sand. Any climb up a dune has the potential to be quite strenuous, but even if you feel like giving up, don’t quit, the rewarding views of Lake Michigan from Mount Baldy’s summit will have been worth the effort.  

NBH Tip: The surface of the Indiana Dunes have a special quality that provide music for those who hike its sandy shoreline, a combination of quartz crystals, moisture, pressure, and friction from your feet creates a musical tone—a clear ringing sound of singing sand. Only a few beaches worldwide are known to sing with this same unique tone. (Info from the NPS brochure)

 

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Michigan

The Dunes Trail: [September 1989] Climbing Sleeping Bear Dune is no easy task, the climb is a strenuous 3.5 mile roundtrip to Lake Michigan, and will take most hikers 3 or 4 hours to complete. The Dunes Trail, also known as The Dune Climb, is located off M-109, 5 miles north of the city of Empire. Once you find the trailhead, you can choose to hike down the dune and then climb back up, or you can leisurely make your way to the bottom via an alternate trail, eliminating the brutal climb back up to the top of the dune, but where is the fun in that? One of the best ways to appreciate this diverse landscape, which features massive sand dunes and white sand beaches, is to view it from atop a rugged bluff, rising nearly 500 feet above Lake Michigan—so don’t wimp out!

NBH Tip: As you hike down the steep dune avoid the urge to run, we saw a girl take off running down the dune and she ended up losing control, as her speed got away from her she began tumbling down the dune like a rag-doll doing cartwheels—luckily she was not hurt.

Playa Del Amor, Baja, Mexico

Playa del Amor: [February 2001] Playa del Amor is the quintessential Baja beach, complete with beautiful golden sand and towering rock formations, but to access this beautiful beach you need to do some hiking and bouldering. Your hike will start behind the Hotel Solmar in Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico, just walk down to Playa Solmar (Solmar Beach) and then head for the mountains/boulders. As you stand on Solmar Beach gazing out at the blue water, note that you are looking at the Pacific Ocean, but once you reach Playa del Amor you will be on the shores of the Sea of Cortez.  Another fact to take note of, is the treacherous nature of the Pacific Ocean along this stretch of sand, it is so treacherous that many tourists have drowned in the intense wave break, so swim at your own risk, and never turn your back on the ocean. Once you are on Solmar Beach, continue to make you’re your way towards the boulders, then start climbing, and as you climb keep looking out at the ocean for signs of whales, in particular, a spray from their blowhole or a glimpse of a tail fluke. The scramble up the rocks is considered a class 3, so be sure of your bouldering skills before setting out, keeping in mind that the hike is probably about 2 miles roundtrip, although there are no markers, and you can take any route you want, so distance basically depends on your chosen path. We chose a pretty direct route where we climbed through a small window in the rocks, which was really fun, especially since the rock formations here are spectacular, especially with the shimmering blue sea as their backdrop—excellent! Once over the first set of boulders you can rest at a sandy beach (at low tide), and then you can tackle your next set of boulders. This next set of boulders is a little steeper, but the views just keep getting better. The other side of this mountain reveals a wide sandy beach that stretches on forever, at this point head toward the rock formations that make up Land’s End, here you will find a sandy corridor connecting this beach with your destination of Playa del Amor (Lover’s Beach). The brilliant turquoise water you see sparkling along the coast is the Sea of Cortez, and if your climbing skills are good, continue to climb up the rocks on the southern end of Lover’s Beach, where you will have a great view of Pelican Rock, Land's End, and Cabo San Lucas.

NBH Tip: There is a less adventurous way to access Playa del Amor, and that is to catch a water taxi from the Cabo San Lucas Marina, but where is the fun in that? It is definitely more fun to hike to the beach, but you could take the opportunity to skip the return trek, just hail a water taxi at Playa del Amor and ask the driver to take you to Land’s End for an up close and personal view of El Arco. The sea arch, known as El Arco, is one of the most recognizable landmarks of the Baja Peninsula, and a trip by boat will allow you to get a good view of it, Land's End, and the resident sea lion colony that call the arch home. The water taxi should cost around $5.00 USD, our fare when we visited in 2001.

 

Jean Lafitte National Preserve (Barataria), Louisiana

Bayou Coquille Trail: [August 1995] The Bayou Coquille Trail starts in an upland hardwood forest on a natural levee, and then slowly descends into a classic Louisiana environment of bottomland cypress and tupelo swamp. The trail then continues on to an open floating grassland marsh. As you hike along this 0.5 mile trail, you will see trees draped in Spanish moss, and forests of palmetto, which predominate the undergrowth, but even though a forest surrounds you, make no mistake— you, are hiking through a swamp. The duckweed coated swamp water, which comes right up to the boardwalk’s edge, camouflages many surprises. If you look closely, you will see alligator and water moccasin staring back at you from swampy water, and keep in mind that you are not protected from these native inhabitants in any way, as there is no barrier between the boardwalk and their swampy home.

NBH Tip: In this wild landscape, the animals and plants remain undisturbed, and alligators do live in the swamp water that skirts the edge of the trail, so keep your eyes open. Another critter often encountered along this trail is the Devil’s Horse, those large, black “crickets” with yellow or red stripes that are normally concealed. The insects are actually Lubber Grasshoppers (Romalea microptera), members of the short-horned grasshopper family. Summertime in the humid subtropics of south Louisiana marks the arrival of these grasshoppers.

     

 

Kiholo Bay, Big Island, Hawaii

Kiholo Bay Hike: [June 1999] Kiholo Bay is a secluded black sand beach on the Big Island of Hawaii, which is accessed via a short 2 mile roundtrip hike just off Highway 19. From Kailua, drive north on Highway 19 past the airport and Kona Coast Park, watch for highway marker # 82 and the Kiholo Scenic Viewpoint, the trail will be on the ocean side of the highway. Once you reach the viewpoint, drive exactly 0.9 miles north and park along the road, here you will see a footpath that leads down to the beach. The trail is well worn, and the walk can be a scorcher, in fact, it was especially hot when we did this hike, of course, we were also carrying all of our snorkeling gear and camera equipment, which I am sure made it seem even hotter. The bay is home to several sea turtles that are rather tame, and they say you can snorkel with them and they will come right up to you and look into your eyes. I can't say if this is true or not, because, like a bunch of idiots, we were too afraid to get into the water! The water is a little murky, due to the mixture of fresh and salt water, and we let our imaginations get the best of us. In particular, we imagined that man-eating sharks were just waiting for us below the calm surface, and it didn't help that we were the only ones there and that we were novice snorkelers at the time. Now that we have more experience we can’t wait to go back, as we would not hesitate to get in now!

NBH Tip: Close to the end of the trail you will come to a gate that says private property, but you can easily walk around the gate and continue hiking to the beach—everything you read about this hike in guide books says that it is okay to do this, so go ahead, we did. Also keep in mind that there are no beach services at Kiholo Bay, so be sure to bring a picnic and beverages, and remember that it can get really hot, especially if you are to scared to get in the water! I don't know if it was the heat, but Cupcake pulled a really funny trick on this hike when he decided to change into his swimsuit. When we were about half way down the trail, he ducked behind some rocks to change, and then all of a sudden he jumped out with just a Speedo on and his T-shirt pulled down over his hips—all you could see were these long legs jutting out from that shirt, making it appear as though he didn’t have anything else on! Pick and I laughed so hard that I could barely snap off a picture, but I did manage to get at least one! Check out those legs!

 

Polihale State Park, Kauai, Hawaii

Polihale Beach: [June 1999] As we drove our rental car down the long and bumpy sugar cane road towards Polihale State Park, the excitement between the three of us was mounting with every mile—soon we would be hiking along the 15 mile white sand beach that boasts the honor of the westernmost point in the USA. The beautiful unspoiled and unrestrained beach did not disappoint—the sands of Polihale offer the hiker mile after mile of tranquility and solitude. Polihale State Park is a remote 140-acre coastal wilderness at the end of the road on the western end of Kauai. The 15 mile uninterrupted stretch of white sand runs from Polihale Ridge, located at the southwest end of the Na Pali Cliffs, to Kekaha Beach Park. When we arrived at the end of the cane field road, we made our way toward the ocean, passing a huge Monkeypod tree and climbing up over some pretty high dunes until finally, one of the most stunning beaches on our planet came into view. To the right, were the forbidding vertical cliffs of Na Pali and to the left the sand stretched on forever. Behind us, bordering the entire back end of the beach are massive dunes, some reaching as high as 100 feet. In the distance, the islands of Niihau and Lehua were visible across the channel. The hiking opportunities on this vast beach are endless, but for a few highlights heed this advice—head north and explore the brush near the slopes of the Na Pali cliffs where the remains of an ancient temple, or heiau, can be found. Next, head south towards Barking Sands Beach where you will find Queen’s Pond, a small encircled reef area that is safe for swimming—but regardless of where you go you will have a brilliant hike.

NBH Tip: Hikers should be very cautious about entering the ocean here because there are strong currents that can quickly sweep a swimmer out to sea, so if you want to swim your only safe bet is Queen’s Pond.

 

Ecola State Park, Oregon

Indian Beach Trail: [May 2001] Located in scenic Ecola State Park, this classic coastal route offers a winding trail through a dense coastal forest with awesome ocean views and two picturesque beaches, Cannon Beach and Indian Beach, as a highlight. This 2 mile trail connects Cannon Beach with Indian Beach, and either can be your starting point, but we began at the Cannon Beach parking lot, where we took a short path down to Cannon Beach before beginning our hike to Indian Beach. As we walked along the beautiful Oregon coastline, we noticed that the beach was covered in sand dollars, BP noticed them first, and then the rest of us proceeded to investigate all the different variations. Some were light, some were dark, and the came in a variety of shapes and sizes. Our next stop was the tide pools, where we discovered a few starfish and some green sea anemones, we were ready to explore the tide pools more thoroughly, but we knew the tide was coming in, so we headed back up the cliff to continue our hike. Once up on the ridgeline the views were amazing, you could see “Terrible Tilly”, which is an old lighthouse on Tillamook Rock, and you could see the many sea stacks that make the Pacific coast famous. As the trail climbs higher, the shoreline views become more stunning, and you feel like you can see forever. Be sure to watch your footing along the ridgeline portion of this hike, as the trail skirts along the edge of the coast with a few sheer drops hundreds of feet down to the beach—definitely not a place to slip and fall. Once you leave the ridgeline, you will enter a coastal rainforest where the vegetation is thick and varied. You will see shamrock, mosses, epiphytes, and a variety of conifers. The trail then emerges from the forest at the Indian Beach parking lot, from there follow the path down to the beach to the bird rookery and sea lion rock, and if you are lucky you will catch a glimpse of a sea lion playing in the surf far below. From this vantage point, we caught a glimpse of a bald eagle flying above the forest. This wonderful trail is a showcase for the long sandy beaches, dramatic headlands, and large bays that characterize Oregon’s north coast, so take your time and enjoy the spectacular scenery. Once you are ready, return to Cannon Beach on the same trail for a 4 mile roundtrip hike.

NBH Tip: Be sure to pick up a tide table before hiking along the beach, because high tide has been known to trap unsuspecting hikers, leading to injuries, or worse, death.

 

Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California

Coastal Trail: [July 2001] If you are in the San Francisco area, and you want to get away from the city for an easy hike with spectacular views, then this is the trail for you. The trailhead can be found by walking under the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge on the paved hike/bike path, where you will then see a prominent sign marking the trail. It is possible to hike this trail as far as Land’s End, but we opted to hike only as far as Baker Beach, making the trek approximately 2 miles in length. The dusty trail immediately begins a descent towards the coastal bluffs, which are beautiful in and of themselves, but if you are hiking south don’t forget to turn around for the spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge! Along the Coastal Trail, there are several little spur trails that lead to excellent vistas of the coast and of the Golden Gate Bridge, but some are very steep with loose rock, so watch your footing. The views of the bridge are incredible, especially if you get a nice sunny day with a blue sky, but in any weather the photo opportunities are endless. At one point along the hike, you will come to a set of wooden stairs that lead past an old WWII battery, just after this landmark you will notice that the astounding views of the coast really start to open up. Unfortunately, the serenity of the views is soon interrupted by a section of the trail that parallels Lincoln Boulevard, which quickly snaps you back to city life, but luckily this section is short-lived. To keep your mind of the traffic whizzing by, look for the WWII pillboxes up on the hill on the other side of the street, they offer a nice distraction. Then once again, the trail will return to the forest, where fragrant Eucalyptus and Cypress trees grow. The trail repeats this pattern a few times—skirts the road, return to the forest, and pass a military battery, until finally you come to a beach access sign, marking the entrance to Baker Beach. In order to get to Baker Beach, you must hike down a 400 step sand ladder, which leads to expansive views of the Pacific Ocean, the wide sandy beach, and the Golden Gate Bridge.

NBH Tip: A word of warning to those of you who are easily embarrassed—Baker Beach, even though it is not a sanctioned nude beach, is often frequented by nudists, and I am talking about very active nudists, not your lay around in the sun nudists. Oh no, these au naturale folks go for the sporty life, playing volleyball and running along the shoreline, which for us proved to be quite entertaining, but for others it might distract from the stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin Headlands, so just be prepared.

Point Dume State Beach, California

NBH Tip: A pair of binoculars will be very useful for spotting passing whales—just scan the ocean for spouts from their blowholes, or for tail flukes as they dive for deeper waters.

 

Leo Carrillo State Park, California

NBH Tip: Before you head out to the beach, be sure to pick up a tide table so that you can take advantage of the tidepools among the rocks. Tide pools can be investigated during low tide, when exploration will reveal a myriad of life, including limpets, turban snails, anemones, sea slugs, sea urchins, and sea stars.