Guadalupe National Park, Texas
McKittrick Canyon Trail: [October 2007] A hike in McKittrick Canyon begins with a visit to the visitor center located at the trailhead—stop in and pick up any maps, brochures, and trail information you might need. After making use of the center’s facilities, bathrooms and water fountains are available, exit the back of the building and head for the McKittrick Canyon Trailhead—one of the most famous and scenic spots in Texas awaits. Along your hike, you will follow an intermittent stream through the desert, transition, and canyon woodlands to the historic Pratt Lodge, Grotto Picnic Area, and Hunter Line Cabin—all of which are highlights of the trip. Hikers of McKittrick Canyon are witness to a confluence of diversity—trees of the east, west, and north, the grasses of the plains, and desert cacti and succulents exist along with animals of the mountain and desert. The trail meanders through a spectacular forest with both conifers and deciduous trees represented—during autumn the maples, oaks and other hardwoods burst into a colorful display—a show we missed by only a few days. Despite being disappointed in our timing, the scenery of the canyon was still fascinating—especially the rare opportunity to hike along a permanent desert stream complete with travertine dams. As tempting as it may be, refrain from wading or drinking from the pristine stream—it is so rare and special that we must all take great care not to despoil it in any way. Pick and I were careful to cross the stream by using the stepping-stones provided—we always try to do our part. About 2.3 miles up the trail, we explored the Pratt Lodge—a cabin made of only stone and wood, in fact, even the roof is stone. Getting to the lodge is a pleasure—the wide trail is flat and in great condition—climbing only 200 feet over 2.3 miles and crossing the stream just twice. Beyond the lodge, the trail becomes single-track, continuing through the forest for another 1.1 miles until reaching the spur trail to the Grotto—a fascinating above ground “cave” where dripping water percolates through the limestone to form stalagmites and stalactites is found 0.1 mile down this trail. The Grotto Picnic Area is also a highlight, historical rock benches and rock picnic tables await in the deep shade—an inviting place for a lunch break. Just down the spur trail from the Grotto is the historic Hunter Line Cabin, located at the end of the trail—a fun place to explore and look for bats and spiders. We spotted an interesting orb weaver spider, which Pick has dubbed the Pringle spider because of its resemblance to the Pringle man. Speaking of spiders, not my favorite subject by the way, on our way back to the Grotto from the Hunter Line Cabin we encountered our first tarantula! He was making his way across the trail near the picnic area, and I have to admit that he was pretty darn cool—despite my arachnophobia. After another brief stop at the picnic area, where we talked with a ranger about the tarantula, we retraced our steps back to the parking lot—ending our day with a fulfilling 6.8-mile roundtrip hike.
NBH Tip: If you happen to be hiking McKittrick Canyon during October, keep an eye out for tarantulas—these spiders normally are homebodies—hanging out in their burrows during the day, with the exception being the fall mating season when the males wander the desert looking for a mate. Also, keep in mind that this is a day-use area—time your hike so that you are leaving the parking lot in order to exit before the gate closes (check the visitor center for times).
Big Bend National Park, Texas
The Window Trail: [October 2007] The Window Trail leads directly to the Window, a large rock canyon that cuts through the Chisos Mountains rim, allowing drainage from the Basin to the Chihuahuan Desert. The V-shaped Window frames panoramic desert views and forms a perfect silhouette for the colorful Big Bend sunsets—the hike itself offers excellent opportunities to view wildlife, plant life, and the fascinating geology of the Chisos Basin. There are two trailheads for this trail—you can start at the Basin Trailhead for a roundtrip distance of 5.6 miles and an elevation drop of 980 feet, or save yourself a few agonizing steps by starting at the Basin Campground, which reduces the distance to 4.4 miles roundtrip and the elevation drop to 500 feet. The trail descends for its entire length making for an easy hike, but remember, the return requires a significant climb—not wanting to climb any farther than needed, we decided to start our hike at the lower trailhead. Eager to reach the brink of the Window, we set out on the trail under the bright afternoon sun—instantly upon setting foot on the trail, we were surrounded by butterflies—and for the remainder of our hike, we were never without a butterfly as a hiking companion. California sisters, queens, fritillaries, sulfurs, crescents, whites, mestra, painted ladies, and buckeyes filled the blue sky with their beauty—making an amazing hike even more enjoyable. As the trail descends, it leaves the Basin and enters Oak Creek Canyon—depending on rainfall, a spring sometimes surfaces in the canyon bottom, creating a flowing stream—lucky for us, the water level was high enough for the picturesque stream to be flowing. Although, after the improved dirt trail ends, the trail follows the chasm carved from the creek, and when the water is flowing the hiking is more difficult—nonetheless, it is great fun hopping from rock to rock in order to cross the stream. Approximately the last 0.25 mile of the hike traverses the slickrock canyon where footing becomes more difficult—there are rock steps, slippery wet surfaces, and several stream crossings. Making our way across the water and polished rock, Pick and I marveled at the spectacular scenery before reaching the top of the pour-off—what an incredible vista! The appropriately named Window, offers a view into the desert below and beyond, its high walls towering above the polished rock that is the pour-off—do not approach the edge too closely, the rocks are slick and a fall to the desert 220 feet below would be fatal. The two of us took our time exploring the area and taking photographs before beginning the climb back up to the campground, a climb of 500 feet over 2.2 miles. The return hike was just as beautiful as the descent into the canyon—excellent views of Casa Grande and Emory Peak rounded out the beauty of the day, making The Window hike one of our favorites in Big Bend National Park.
NBH Tip: If you opt to begin your hike at the Basin Campground, try to find parking near site #51—there is limited parking in front of the restroom. If that lot is full, drive back and park at the amphitheater lot—the walk back to the trailhead will add an additional 0.25 mile to your total. Remember, you can combine The Window Trail with the Oak Spring Trail—an especially appealing option if you can arrange a shuttle at one of the trailheads, otherwise you will have to return the way you came.
Window View Trail: [October 2007] The 0.25-mile Window View Trail winds through mountain grassland, offering spectacular vistas of the Chisos Mountains and The Window—the V-shaped opening in the mountains lowest on the western horizon. This easy, paved walk is the perfect way to leisurely explore the trees, plants and landscape of the Chisos Basin—pinyon pine, junipers, oak, cacti, and yucca dot the landscape of mountain peaks, most notably Carter Peak, Vernon Bailey, Casa Grande, and Emory Peak—the brochure at the trailhead describes and maps these highlights. About halfway along the trail you reach the overlook, complete with benches, where you can enjoy a wonderful unobstructed view of The Window—precipitation falling in the Basin drains through this notch and falls to the desert below. A hike along this short loop trail is rewarding at any time of day, but at sunset, the views are truly magnificent—the pyramid shaped Carter Peak to the left of The Window and the rounded top of Vernon Bailey Peak to the right are perfectly silhouetted against the fiery scarlet, orange, and gold clouds of the dusk sky.
NBH Tip: In order to see The Window up close, take a hike down The Window Trail—a 5.6-mile roundtrip walk that gets you to the edge of The Window and the Pour-off into the desert 220-feet below. Also, the rock wall that lines the Window View Trail is the perfect place to hunt for scorpions at night—use an ultra violet scorpion flashlight—blacklight—to find scorpions, which fluoresce under the UV light, hiding in the warm recesses of the rock. If you use this technique to locate a scorpion, please just observe them without harassment—the desert is their home and they won’t hurt you if you leave them be.
Click here for info on purchasing photos
Copyright 1989-2008, Natural Born Hikers, All rights reserved.
Send comments on this web site to nbhcrew@naturalbornhikers.com
