Great Circle Earthworks, Newark Earthworks, Ohio

Great Circle Earthworks: [Hiked Yearly] The Great Circle Earthworks, formerly known as Moundbuilders State Memorial, is comprised of a geometric earthwork built by the Hopewell culture approximately 2000 years ago. This Great Circle is actually elliptical in shape with diameters of 1150 and 1250 feet across, with the height of the mound’s walls varying anywhere from 5 to 14 feet. This earthen enclosure is just one part of the greater Newark Earthworks State Memorial—the largest system of geometric earthworks built anywhere in the world. The Octagon Earthworks and the Wright Earthworks make up the other two units that help preserve these fascinating remnants of prehistoric Ohio—so important is this preservation, that the site has been designated a National Historic Landmark. The best way to appreciate the importance of these earthworks is to take a walk around the grounds, hiking atop and within the Great Circle itself. Hiking around the circumference of the Great Circle measures in at about 0.7 miles, and you have the opportunity to increase that mileage to whatever you wish by exploring the 30 acres inside of the circle—investigating the ditch or moat that is nearly 13 feet deep in places and the Eagle Mound found in the center of the enclosure. The Eagle Mound is a low mound comprised of three lobes that some people have interpreted as a bird’s body and two outstretched wings. A walk within and around this impressive structure can be done in any season, but our favorites are the spring and the fall. Spring blankets the mound and the enclosure with an abundance of wildflowers, most notably Dutchman’s breeches, spring beauty, dandelion, bluets, bloodroot, and trout lilies. Fall, on the other hand, paints the landscape of hardwood trees spectacular shades of red, yellow, and orange.

NBH Tip: In addition to the outdoor activities available, you might want to visit the museum—the first in the nation to be devoted exclusively to prehistoric American Indian art. After your visit, head south on SR 79(Hebron Rd) where you will find La Paloma's Fine Mexican Food (1112 Hebron Rd, Heath, Ohio) our favorite local place to eat—their specialty is the sopapilla (a special dough is rolled out and filled with ingredients such as beef and cheese, beans, or chicken, deep fried to a golden brown and then topped with chopped lettuce and tomato), and their nachos and homemade salsa are to die for!

Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie, Illinois

Newton Interim Trail Loop: [April 2005] This trail, located in Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie, is a 1.5 mile loop through old farmsteads and native grasslands. The park was established in 1996 as the first national tallgrass prairie in the country. The medium to tall grass throughout this prairie provides nesting habitat for Henslow’s sparrows, bobolinks, and other grassland birds. Henslow’s sparrow (Ammodramus savannarum) is one of several grassland birds that have become endangered in Illinois due in part to habitat loss. As you hike you will also notice that portions of the prairie are mowed, this short grass condition is there to provide nesting habitat for sandpipers and loggerhead shrikes. Even though this hike doesn’t offer the wow factor of outstanding scenery, it is important to remember that this serene area is vital to many species and its protection is much warranted. As you hike along the grassy path you might notice a large row of trees, these trees started out as a living fence of thorny Osage orange shrubs. The shrubs were planted by early Euro American farmers who long ago abandoned their stake.

NBH Tip: Combine the Newton Trail with the Henslow Trail, just on the other side of the parking lot, for a 3 mile roundtrip hike through a pristine prairie.

 

Waterfall Glen Forest Preserve, Illinois

Kettle Hole Trail:  [April 2005] This 0.9 mile long trail is perfect for experiencing a few of the wonders that Waterfall Glen Forest Preserve has to offer. In particular are the flower species, over 700 native plants, more than half of all flora native to DuPage County, can be found at Waterfall Glen. Waterfall Glen’s primary savanna, known as Poverty Prairie, due to the profusion of poverty oat grass, supports over 260 native species. Wildlife also use this area year-round and you are likely to see several species of birds, including hawks, owls, turkey vultures, and ducks. We spotted a couple of mallards and even a few wood ducks. Kettle Hole Trail can be pretty soggy at times, and our hike was no exception, in fact the trailhead itself was pretty much under water. But we managed to find our way onto the trail and into the heart of the forest preserve. The trail takes you past woodlands, meadows, and wetlands, giving you a peek into this 2,474 acre preserve.

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NBH Tip: Begin your hike at the parking area off of Lemont Road, from there hike along the main trail, an eight foot wide crushed limestone multipurpose path, until you find the marker for Kettle Hole Trail. Kettle Hole will reconnect with the main trail allowing for a nice loop hike of about 2 miles.

 

Salt Fork State Park, Ohio

Hosak’s Cave Trail: [June 2005] The beginning of this short but rugged 0.5 mile trail is enough to send the faint hearted running for the safety of their cars. Located at the trailhead are two posted warnings, one from the park service and one from the family of a young girl who fell to her death. A solemn memorial to the young girl cautions hikers to stay on the designated trail, and a park service sign advises that the trail is steep and treacherous and is to be undertaken at the hiker’s own risk. We pushed on past the postings and into the shade of the forest. The trail begins climbing immediately after veering away from a beautiful shale bed stream, leading the hiker to the huge, scenic rock shelter known as Hosak’s Cave. A trickle of water drips over the edge of the cave’s roof, trying its best to look like a waterfall, which perhaps it does on a rainy day. The rock shelter is cool and dark, and has no doubt sheltered many people from a passing storm. The view looking out from within the “cave” is beautiful, especially when the sun illuminates the sandstone with a warm glow. If you are sure-footed and can control any urge you might have to climb up on top of the cave, then you have no reason to be afraid of this trail. Just be careful and enjoy the view.

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NBH Tip: We hiked the loop trail in a clockwise direction, tackling the steep climb at the beginning of the hike, but if you want to avoid the more treacherous portion of the trail just hike up counter-clockwise, enjoy the cave, and then return the way you came…avoiding the steeper sections altogether.

 

Pine Crest Loop Trail: [June 2005] This 1.0 mile loop trail is located in Salt Fork State Park, Ohio’s largest state park. This beautiful park lies on the mighty Allegheny Plateau, and has as its centerpiece Salt Fork Lake, and it boasts over 14 miles of hiking trails. Pine Crest Loop Trail meanders through the forest, skirting the shores of the lake, and taking the hiker deep into the woods for glimpses of white-tailed deer and gray squirrels. Along the edges of the trail lie many huge boulders, perfect for climbing and picnics. Springtime brings a myriad of blooms along the trail, including bluets, trillium, and jack-in-the-pulpit. Birders will be happy to know that Swallows and Pileated woodpeckers can be seen flying among the trees. We took our time hiking this short trail, stopping often to enjoy the splendid views of the lake, climb on the boulders, and admire the wildflowers.

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Nelson-Kennedy Ledges Loop Trail: [October 2005] Ledges, waterfalls, and tight squeezes await the hiker at Nelson-Kennedy Ledges State park in Northeast Ohio. The trails, a little less than 2.0 miles combined, are blazed with white, yellow, blue, and red, with white being the easiest and red the most difficult. If you take a trail blazed in red be prepared to hike through some cold, dark recesses and to squeeze through some pretty tight spaces. Along the red trail, you will encounter places with names like Fat Man’s Peril, Indian Pass, The Squeeze, and the Devil’s Icebox. To access all of these trails park in the parking lot and cross the road where you will see a kiosk---this is the trailhead. From the kiosk take a left and follow the blazes, soon you will enter the cool, dark, cliffs of The Ledges. If you choose to brave the red trail, you can start your hike now, otherwise stay on the white trail, which goes above the ledges and skirts the edge of the rock outcroppings. From this vantage point you can see the two-part Minnehaha Falls and down into the steep slot canyon that the falls create. The upper portion of Minnehaha Falls is 20 feet high, and the lower portion is 35 feet high. Continuing on past the waterfalls you will enter a forest of beech and maple and soon emerge back at the kiosk, now make a left and head towards Cascade Falls. The trail to Cascade Falls is blazed in yellow and along the hike you will encounter Dwarf’s Pass (be sure to duck) and Old Maid’s Kitchen, another cave, before reaching the falls. A boardwalk leads the way to the 35 foot Cascade Falls, which flows down a rock face into a jumble of boulders. Now you have seen it all, return along the yellow trail to the kiosk where you can head for your car or do it all again!

NBH Tip: A flashlight or headlamp would be a great asset in the dark recesses of the slump blocks and caves. Also, be sure to bring a tripod if you plan on taking any photos, you will need it in the dark conditions.

 

Hinckley Reservation Metropark, Ohio

Whipp’s Ledges Loop Trail: [October 2005] Excellent opportunities to see towering rock ledges abound on this short trail. Whipp’s Ledges, located in Hinckley Reservation near Cleveland, is a 1.25 mile long trail that connects Whipp’s Ledges and Top O’ Ledges picnic area. Along this hilly trail, you will pass through, above and below the spectacular 50 foot tall Sharon Conglomerate Ledges. The trail begins at the bottom of these outcroppings, which are made of quartz pebbles cemented into sandstone, hence the term conglomerate, and they rise 350 feet above Hinckley Lake. You can start your hike at the Whipp’s Ledges Picnic Area where you will see a set of steps at the trailhead, turn left to climb a hill past some huge boulders onto which the park service has attached educational plaques. The plaques provide information on glaciers and geology. As you hike through the narrow passageways you will get a sense of the immensity of these ledges, and you will notice Beech and Maple trees growing up between the outcroppings. The trail also climbs up a stone stairway to the top of the ledges, from there you can peer down into the crevasse formed by the rocks.

NBH Tip: For a longer hike combine Whipp’s Ledges with Hinckley Lake Loop Trail, 3.4 miles long, for great views of the lake and excellent bird watching.

Bedford Reservation Metropark, Ohio

Bridal Veil Falls Trail: [October 2005] If you want some bang for your buck, hike this short 0.25 mile trail for scenery that is unexpectedly beautiful, especially in an urban area. The trail is located in the Bedford Reservation, a jewel in the “Emerald Necklace” of Cleveland’s Metroparks, along the Gorge Parkway. Tinker’s Creek created this gorge, and further down the parkway you will find a scenic overlook of the gorge itself, but for now, enjoy the beauty of Bridal Veil Falls. The trail follows the contour of the creek via a well-made boardwalk, complete with bridges, and along dirt paths. At several spots along the way, you can stop and admire the view from wooden overlooks. The day we hiked this trail it was particularly beautiful thanks to the colorful autumn leaves. The falls itself was dry, but it was nevertheless spectacular. In fact, the low water level allowed for close-up views of the intricate shale creek bed.

NBH Tip: Sometimes hikers pass up the shorter trails in favor of longer backpacking routes, thinking that nothing of natural significance can be seen on trails so close to the road, and although this trail is right on the beaten path it is still well worth the 15 minutes it takes to hike out and back. In fact, we can assure you the views are every bit as good as many backcountry hikes.

 

Viaduct Park in the Bedford Reservation, Ohio

Great Falls: [October 2005] Tinker’s Creek, best explored from the Bedford Reservation, has carved out an impressive gorge in Northeast Ohio. The Great Falls of Tinker’s Creek, a surprising 80 feet wide, makes for a dramatic sight in the Ohio countryside. At creek side, the mist from the falls hangs in the air, and the sound of the powerful water reminds you of why this waterfall was once harnessed to run the area’s mill. The trail to the falls is located in Viaduct Park in the town of Bedford, Ohio. From the parking lot climb the stairs to the top of the viaduct in order to gain access to a great view of Tinker’s Creek far below, there are also interpretive signs that explain the significance of the various mill ruins that you will encounter along the trail. From the top of the viaduct make your way down the paved trail towards Tinker’s Creek, soon you will be standing at an overlook above the lip of the falls. It is possible to leave the paved path, via a spur trail, in order to get a better view of Great Falls and its subsequent cascades-don’t pass this up. It is along this part of the hike that you truly appreciate the beauty of the area. After you have had your fill of boulder hopping and skirting the edge of the creek, make your way back to the paved trail in order to climb out of the gorge back to your car. No mileage was posted, but we estimate the trail to be less than 0.5 miles in length.

NBH Tip: If you are in the Cleveland area, don’t miss this little known 15 foot tall waterfall. Visit anytime of year, but the gorge is especially scenic in the fall, when the autumn leaves bring a splash of color to the landscape.

Griggs Nature Preserve, Ohio

Hayden Run Falls: [June 2003] I would not have believed it myself, if I had not seen it with my own eyes—a wild and beautiful waterfall in the middle of an urban metropolis. Hayden Run Falls, located off of Hayden Run Road in a suburb of Columbus, Ohio, cuts its way through a surprisingly scenic gorge on its way to the Scioto River. The falls cascade 25 feet over a rocky cliff amid the backdrop of a beautiful hardwood forest, making you feel far removed from the sprawling city life just a few feet away. The hike down to the falls is a bit steep at first, but the trail soon levels out, leading the hiker to the falls in less than half a mile. If you are in the area we highly suggest a hike to this hidden gem, which has to be one of Columbus’ best kept secrets—and if the weather is warm, bring your swimsuit as the pool at the base of the falls makes for a great swimming hole.

NBH Tip: Hayden Run Falls are located within Griggs Reservoir Park on the west side of the Scioto River. Upon our last visit, the falls were not signed, so finding the trailhead can be a bit of a challenge. The trailhead is located at the parking area on the south side of Hayden Run Road—once there, just walk east towards the guardrail and then descend the steep hill, which will lead you to the falls.

Hayden Falls revisited October 2006:

Trail Update: Since our last visit to this beautiful waterfall, many trail improvements have been put in place—namely, the parking is now signed, overlooks have been built, and a boardwalk has been built to the base of the falls.

 

Beaver Creek State Park, Ohio

Vondergreen Trail: [July 2006] The Vondergreen Trail promises views of the whitewater of Little Beaver Creek, steep forested slopes, and plentiful wildlife—what it delivered was muddy trails, weeds six feet tall infringing on the trail, including stinging nettles, and well, okay, we’ll give it the great views of scenic Little Beaver Creek—when we could see over the weeds. Overall, this trail was disappointing, but we did enjoy the river views, the little scramble up the shale slope, and the chance to see the remnants of the Sandy and Beaver Canal. If you plan to hike this trail, just know that you will most likely be dealing with poorly signed trail intersections, forays onto bridle trails—hence the well-trodden muddy sections, and many weeds, but it is at least a walk in beautiful Beaver Creek State Park, and a chance to get some exercise. The Vondergreen Trail begins at Gaston’s Mill and Pioneer Village, skirts the edge of Little Beaver Creek, enters the woodland, and then ends at a primitive campground five miles from the start. From the Pioneer Village, walk towards and across the red steel bridge, where you will then see a trail sign for Upper and Lower Vondergreen Trail—we took the Lower Vondergreen Trail, which follows the river downstream. Perhaps the Upper Vondergreen would have been a better choice, but we will never know. Wildlife abounds in the park, but all we sighted were Canada Geese and a cute little Wood Frog. If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the resident beaver, white-tailed deer, red fox, raccoons, black bear, and bald eagles—if you are not so lucky, you might startle a local skunk. Of course, we were hiking in the middle of the day, which explains the lack of wildlife sightings—your chances are better around the edges of the day. Among the many plants that encroach on the trail, you are likely to see purple-flowering raspberry, cow parsnip, galax, phlox, and touch-me-not (jewelweed)—an antidote to another easily encountered plant, poison ivy. At some points, the vegetation is so overgrown that it is easiest to walk along the trail with your arms held above your head—we termed this maneuver “Vondergreening.” The highlights of the trail include Grey’s Lock, Vondergreen’s Lock, and Gretchen’s Lock. In addition, there is a nice little scramble up a shale slope near towering rock walls at the 3.4 mile mark—definitely one of the most scenic parts of the hike. Zachamondie and Teach were the first to reach the slope, and neither one had deemed it climbable—it took myself and The Berg to show the rest just how easy it was! After that, everyone followed suit—first Teach and Zachamondie, then Dauster, then Pick and Dar. We all conquered the steep, crumbling shale to reach the continuation of the trail—great fun! At the end of the hike, which is usually done as an out and back, 10 mile roundtrip hike, we opted to hike the road (Sprucevale Road-CR 428) back to Pioneer Village, rather than endure the trail again, the total hiking distance was still 10 miles. Along the way, we happened upon a sign marking the spot where gangster Pretty Boy Floyd (1934’s Public Enemy Number One) met his demise at the hands of the East Liverpool police—an added bonus to hiking the road.

NBH Tip: Near the 2.3 mile mark, you will see a spur trail with a sign that reads “Gretchen’s Lock”—as far as we can tell, the rock remnants found along this trail are not Gretchen’s Lock. A park sign, complete with a history of this unusual tale, marks another more impressive structure located at the 4.1 mile mark—this one also declaring the ruin to be Gretchen’s Lock. We are inclined to believe that this is the real deal, so our advice is to pass up the first spur trail. The second, more imposing structure is more fitting of Gretchen’s tale of woe—Gretchen Gill, daughter of E.H. Gill, the Sandy and Beaver Canal engineer, came to America by ship, and her mother died on the voyage. Upon arrival, Gretchen caught malaria and died during construction of the canal, and her father entombed her casket in the lock that bears her name. E.H. Gill later returned to Europe, taking her excavated casket back home with him on the trip, whereupon the ship sank. Her ghost is said to haunt the old canal to this day.

 

Highbanks Metro Park, Ohio

Dripping Rock and Overlook Loop Trail: [September 2006] Highbanks, a suburban Metro Park in Columbus, Ohio, offers the hiker a chance to see prehistoric Native American earthworks, a wetland, and views of the Olentangy State Scenic River, all on trails that meander through a beautiful hardwood forest. In order to see as much of the park as time would allow, we decided to combine two trails—the Dripping Rock Trail (woodpecker blaze) and the Overlook Trail (blue arrowhead blaze), for a roundtrip hike of 5 miles. We began our hike behind the Nature Center, where we picked up the Dripping Rock Trail, taking a left towards the Observation Deck. Our large group, 14 hikers in all, found the wide semi-gravel trail to be easy to follow and conducive to group hiking. The first stop along the trail took us to the edge of a creek, spanned by a bridge and flanked by high shale cliffs. It was quintessential Ohio scenery, granting us the perfect opportunity to take several portraits and group photos amid the beautiful backdrop. Continuing down the trail, we came to a short spur trail to an Observation Deck overlooking a broad open meadow—it was mid-September and the meadow was filled with Goldenrod and Queen Anne’s lace, another perfect backdrop for a group photo. Adding to the beauty of the trail were the stunning views of the steep ravines and the insect life along the edge of the trail, we encountered several large funnel-weaver spiders, which made for excellent macro photography. We followed the Dripping Rock Trail, crossing over the park road, until it intersected with the Overlook Trail. At this point, we followed the blue arrowhead blazes of the Overlook Trail towards prehistoric earthworks and a deck that overlooks the Olentangy River 100 feet below—this section of the trail is within the Edward F. Hutchins Nature Preserve, a place where sumac, thistle, and goldenrod flourish. The Overlook Deck was a bit of a disappointment, since the leaves blocked most of the view, perhaps in the winter the view would be more revealing. After leaving the Observation Deck, we completed the Overlook Trail Loop and returned to complete the rest of the Dripping Rock Trail. At this point, everyone was getting pretty hungry, so we opted to bypass the spur trail to the Wetlands and head for Fuddruckers. We made one exception, and hiked the spur trail to the Adena Mound, which was a little disappointing and much smaller than expected—maybe it was because we were hungry or maybe it was because the Great Circle Earthworks are practically in our backyards, but we were not impressed. In hindsight, I wish we would have taken the Wetlands Spur instead, but regardless, Highbanks is an impressive park. Our day on the trails ended up being a perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon in September among friends.

NBH Tip: The trails of Highbanks Metro Park are heavily used by joggers, so be sure to give way when you see a runner coming in your direction. Also, be sure to visit the Nature Center before or after your hike—they have several excellent displays, our favorites being the life-size replica of the prehistoric fish Dinichthys, and the bowling ball like rocks called concretions.

 

Knox Woods State Nature Preserve, Ohio

Shawnee and Mingo Trail Loop: [October 2006] Located within the 30-acre Knox Woods State Nature Preserve you will find the Shawnee Trail (a 0.7-mile loop) and the Mingo Trail (a 0.3-mile loop) which form a figure eight loop that can be combined for a 1-mile roundtrip hike. A hike within this small mixed hardwood, mesophytic forest takes you into a forest dominated by large sugar maple, red and black oak, shagbark hickory, and black walnut. In addition, you will see several large specimens of tulip tree, white oak, black cherry, black gum, and white ash—what you will not see, are wildflowers or other underbrush, as the area seems to have been heavily grazed. We accessed the trail system by parking at the Opportunity Knox Employment Center, where you will find the State Park sign directly behind the building—from the sign, walk down the hill and around the corn field along a mowed path until you see the kiosk at the forests’ edge. As you enter the forest, you will see the Shawnee Trail sign,