Big Bend National Park, Texas

Rio Grande Village Nature Trail: [October 2007] The Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, a 0.75 mile loop, is an easy hike through diverse ecosystems—one being a Chihuahuan Desert wetlands, a rare and unexpected oases in this harsh and arid environment. The trail begins with a 150-foot boardwalk that crosses a wetland created by a beaver and fed by a warm spring—look for insects, small fish, snakes, turtles, birds, waterfowl, herons, and beaver. At the end of the boardwalk, after passing through a stand of reeds, you will climb a hill and leave the spring area and its lush vegetation behind—as you climb, you will notice that the air becomes much less humid as you enter the dry desert—willows and reeds give way to creosote bushes, prickly pear, and ocotillo.  Once at the top of the hill, the loop trail forks—take the right fork of the trail. Continue hiking the right fork until you reach a spur trail to your right—take this trail towards the banks of the Rio Grande. As you hike the spur trail, watch for marine fossils and mortar holes, or depressions in the rock, which were made by prehistoric inhabitants who used them to grind and process foods. Just a short distance farther and you reach the green waters of the Rio Grande—a serpentine thread of life flowing through the heart of the desert, and the perfect place to spot some interesting wildlife. Luckily, we were able to see a few turtles—Big Bend Sliders—basking on a log, a water snake, and a few lizards—not to mention, the roadrunner that was making quick work of the desert trail above the riverbank. After exploring the water’s edge, return to the spur trail junction and continue along the Rio Grande Loop to the right, taking in the view of the massive limestone cliffs rising above and across the river—this is the colorful Mexican mountain range known as the Sierra del Carmen. At the next trail junction, turn left and hike up the hill for a beautiful view—the Rio Grande, Sierra del Carmen, the Mexican village of Boquillas, and the Chisos Mountains complete the panorama. After enjoying the view, head back down the hill and turn left at the junction, continue downhill to the start of the loop, the boardwalk, and the trailhead.

NBH Tip: At the trailhead, pick up one of the self-guiding pamphlets ($1.00) and follow along as the booklet describes the vegetation, scenery, and history found at trail markers 1 through 14—a dollar well spent.

 

Santa Elena Canyon Trail: [October 2007] High canyon walls, a beautiful flowing river, and lush riparian vegetation await the hiker who sets out on this 1.8-mile roundtrip trail—begin your walk at the end of the Ross Maxell Scenic Drive and you will soon be enjoying the beauty of Santa Elena Canyon. The walls of Santa Elena, one of three major canyons in Big Bend National Park, rise 1,500 feet above the Rio Grande River and this easy hike gets you right to the mouth of the canyon—ending abruptly where the canyon wall meets the river. From the parking area, the trail descends through a stand of giant river cane towards the edge of Terlingua Creek—you must ford this waterway to continue the hike—use caution if the water is high or flowing quickly. After crossing the creek, climb the bank at the most convenient spot—a primitive trail should be visible through the river cane and tamarisk trees. Once you are through the trees, you will come to a fairly steep paved series of switchbacks—as you climb, enjoy the views of the Rio Grande, the Sierra Quemada and Chisos Mountains to the northeast, and the towering Sierra Ponce across the river in Mexico. From the top of the switchbacks, the views really open up—the calm waters of the Rio Grande emerge from the canyon, and near dusk the canyon walls glow orange in the setting sun. Take in the view from this high vantage point before descending the steep steps to the river’s edge—the trail follows the river through thick stands of cane, mesquite, and tamarisk, eventually winding among boulders and leading to the muddy banks of the Rio Grande. Explore as far as you want, or until you reach the point where the trail ends, and then retrace your steps back to your car.

NBH Tip: The sun only illuminates the walls of the canyon for a short period of time—just before sunset—making photography difficult during other times of the day. Plan to hike near dusk, and you will be treated to a beautiful sunset show—the canyon walls glow a fiery orange, the light reflecting in the waters of the Rio Grande.

 

Oak Spring Trail: [October 2007] The Oak Spring Trail serves as a connection between the Chisos Mountains and the Chihuahuan Desert, providing great views of both for the hiker who treks along this 4-mile trail—additionally, when it is running, the Window waterfall can also be seen from this trail. There are two access points to the Oak Spring Trail—the upper trailhead is along the Window Trail and the lower trailhead is near the end of a dirt road located across from the Sam Nail Ranch—we opted to begin at the lower trailhead. The seasonal Window waterfall, also known as the Window Pour-off, can be seen cascading 220-feet through The Window—a V-shaped opening in the Chisos Mountains—and having hiked to the edge of The Window earlier, we were now interested in seeing the drop from a different perspective. We made our way to the parking area at the end of the rocky road and set out for the trailhead—located 0.8-mile from the road’s end. Following the road on foot past a gate, we soon reached Oak Creek (0.5-mile from the parking area)—a small stream fed by Oak Spring that creates a lush oasis of willows, oak, and cottonwood. This woodland, nestled within the Big Bend desert, is home to abundant wildlife including, numerous birds, butterflies, deer, and javelina—once at the stream, look for the large oak that is bent over to the ground—known as the “tie-down” tree, it is the perfect place to rest during your hike. From the tree, cross the creek and continue hiking along the road towards the Oak Spring Trail proper—located off to the left of the road. The rocky, dirt single path trail climbs steadily up toward the Window Trail where a bench high above Oak Creek, 1.2 miles into the hike, grants a view of the Window Pour-off—a sight to behold when the water is cascading. We enjoyed the view of the waterfall, and then retraced our steps back to the car, but you can continue along the trail and eventually meet up with The Window Trail—the junction is 2 miles from the Oak Spring parking area.

NBH Tip: The single-track Oak Spring Trail is narrow and crowded by desert cacti—spiny prickly pear, sharp bladed sotol, and agave extend their skin tearing appendages across the trail just waiting for an inattentive hiker. Due to the risk of injury, it is advisable to wear long pants on this trail—even when the weather is hot.

 

Grapevine Hills Trail: [October 2007] Beginning six miles down the Grapevine Hills improved dirt road, this 2.2-mile roundtrip trail takes the hiker into the heart of Grapevine Hills—a jumbled pile of boulders where you will find the geological highlight known as Balanced Rock. The trail is an easy 1-mile walk, mostly on flat terrain, traversing in and out of a sandy wash for the first 0.75 mile before reaching a steep rocky scramble among the granite boulders—trail markers in the form of arrows point the way. When you arrive at the trailhead, begin following the obvious trail as it heads south-southeast into the canyon along a sandy wash—the trail criss-crosses the wash several times, at times going directly through the soft sand of the wash itself. It was in the impressionable sand of the wash that we noticed several unmistakable footprints—the soft padded track of a mountain lion. We were hiking in the early morning to avoid the heat of afternoon, as there is no shade or water along the trail, and the possibility that the lion was still in the vicinity definitely kept us on alert. The wash is lined with a variety of desert flora—look for prickly pear, creosote, cholla, acacia, and persimmon. As the trail takes you farther into the canyon, the scenic terrain of the Grapevine Hills flank the path on both sides—towering rock formed from a mushroom-shaped intrusion and later eroded into the hills and pinnacles you see today dominate the landscape. Just ahead, at the end of the wash, the trail climbs to a low saddle among the variety of rock shapes—make your way towards the arch that lies approximately 300 feet within the boulders. The trio of boulders that form Balanced Rock create a perfect stone window that frames the distant mountains—take your time and explore every angle of this geological highlight before retracing your steps back to the parking lot.

NBH Tip: If you are brave enough to venture into the depths of the jumbled boulders before sunrise, you will be in the perfect spot to witness the rising sun illuminating Balanced Rock—a scene we have yet to view. Even if you don’t make it for sunrise, the early morning light is still great for photography and the cool desert mornings are perfect for hiking.

Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas

North Mountain Self-Guided Trail: [October 2007] Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, located within the Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas, protects three large rock masses that rise hundreds of feet above the desert floor—the rock outcrops (West Mountain, East Mountain, and North Mountain) offer climbers and hikers a unique natural environment for exploration. These islands in the desert conceal secluded alcoves, natural basins and cisterns known as tanks, and ancient pictographs—be aware, of the three mountains within the park only North Mountain is open for unguided hiking. Miles of official and unofficial hiking is available at the park, but our time was limited, so we chose to confine ourselves to the self-guided path on North Mountain—granting us an easy day hike through the jumbled rock masses and a brief glimpse into Hueco Tank’s extraordinary natural history. On our hike, we trekked south along the east side of North Mountain, passing through a canyon and wash consisting of a mix of Chihuahuan Desert and Ice Age remnant plants—soon, we spotted the steel posts and chain railings leading up the rock slope. With the aid of the railings, we made our way up the moderately steep slope—following the marked route as far as it went, and then exploring on our own the cliffs and alcoves near the summit. As we climbed North Mountain, we came across several basins or huecos—Spanish for hollow—ranging in size from a few inches to several feet wide, but all were dry. After crawling through a few alcoves and enjoying the view, we retraced our steps back to the parking lot—ending our hike without glimpsing any of the pictographs. Perhaps when we find ourselves in Texas again, and when we have more time, we can explore the park further—until then, we can say that we enjoyed our brief orientation at Hueco Tanks.

NBH Tip: Only limited numbers of people are allowed to visit the park at once—due to vandalism—so advance reservations are recommended. As mentioned above, only North Mountain is open to unguided tours, so if you want to see the pictographs and explore the park to its fullest, you must hire a registered guide.

 

Joshua Tree National Park, California

Arch Rock: [March 2008] The 0.3-mile interpretive loop trail that leads to Arch Rock is located in the low desert of Joshua Tree National Park—a broad transition zone where the higher, cooler Mojave and lower, hotter Colorado Deserts meet. In this part of the desert, Joshua trees are conspicuously absent, and plants of the low desert like ocotillo, palo verde, and yucca start to appear—you can watch for these specimens along the interpretive trail. For many visitors, the Joshua trees are the essence of their park experience, but for those eager to explore the sand dunes, palm oases, and massive granite rock gardens, Joshua Tree National Park offers a rich diversity of desert environments. In order to explore this diversity firsthand, head for the Arch Rock Trailhead near campsite #9 in the White Tank Campground—set amid a jumble of bold granite rock outcrops. The boulders themselves are a scenic attraction, but your goal lies part way along the trail where weathering has created jointed blocks of granite—eroded from both sides until the indentations met, creating a rock arch 25-feet long and 15-feet high. The arch, resembling the head and trunk of an earless elephant, sits perched atop a ridge that is perfect for rock scrambling—you can climb between the boulders at the base of the arch and make your way to the formation. After exploring the arch, continue hiking along the loop trail, stopping to read the interpretive signs that describe the geology and flora of the surrounding desert.

NBH Tip: Joshua Tree National Park does not prohibit hikers from climbing on or around the arch, but if you choose to do so, please be respectful—take caution so that you do not accidentally cause destruction to the arch as you climb, and most importantly, do not deface this geologic wonder in any way.

 

Skull Rock Nature Trail: [March 2008] This easy 1.7-mile nature trail loops through a jumbled garden of rock formations—most notably Skull Rock and Jumbo Rocks—separate parts of a spectacular collection of eroded boulders. We began our hike at the famous Skull Rock, an eerie formation easily discerned as a skull—complete with a nose and eye sockets—and ended our loop amid the towering boulders of Jumbo Rocks. Skull Rock sits at the entrance (or exit) of the southern loop, immediately adjacent to Park Route 12. From there, the trail winds southward 0.5-mile to the southern end of Jumbo Rocks Campground, where exploring the off-trail maze of granite domes, towers, and balanced rocks is both rewarding and fun.

NBH Tip: The boulder formations and the foot paths that wind through Jumbo Rocks, allow hikers to explore and photograph the distinctive rocks that serve as scenic backdrops for the Joshua trees that dot the landscape—particularly at sunset or sunrise.

 

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California

Elephant Trees Discovery Trail: [March 2008] The 1.5-mile Elephant Trees Discovery Trail climbs gently up a rock-lined alluvial fan, granting the hiker the opportunity to view a rare elephant tree, before eventually looping back to the parking area. The elephant tree, a rarity in the California deserts, attains a height of only ten feet and sports a peeling parchment-like bark and wrinkled limbs that vaguely resemble the skin of an elephant—it’s a bit of a stretch, but the tree is still much admired by park visitors. Elephant trees are common to Baja California and the Mexican state of Sonora, but are scarcely scattered amid the washes and canyons of Anza-Borrego, one of the northernmost extents of their range. Follow the self-guided nature trail (brochures usually available at the trailhead) until you reach signpost #10, where you will see the trail’s signature elephant tree, but for those hikers that arrive during the spring wildflower season, your attention will most likely be overtaken by the amazing colors and fragrances of a desert in bloom. While hiking this easy, educational loop, we were amazed by the incredible blooms found along the trail—yellow cactus barrel blooms, magenta beavertail cactus blooms, and the greenish cholla cactus blooms catch the eye immediately, while the smaller blooms of chuparosa, chicory, desert dandelion, ocotillo, pincushion, ghost flowers, desert five-spot, wild heliotrope, and Bigelow’s monkey flowers take a little more effort to find. We were pleasantly surprised to find all of the afore mentioned specimens blooming, which made for an even more enjoyable desert walk.

NBH Tip: The self-guiding brochures, available at the trailhead, are keyed to 17 plant identification stops—be sure to pick one up, if the kiosk is stocked, to keep yourself informed about the desert flora.

 

Little Surprise Canyon Trail: [March 2008] High canyon walls, spring wildflowers, and an easy 0.7-mile out and back trail await hikers intent on exploring Anza-Borrego Desert State Park’s Little Surprise Canyon—a short but sweet canyon excursion. Generally, the canyon is a place for viewing spring wildflowers, and the 2008 season was no exception—following a tip from a visitor center volunteer, we tracked down a patch of ghost flowers, blazing stars, and desert trumpets. The canyon is also a good place to watch for hummingbirds that frequent the many chuparosa bushes in the area, and we also saw California quail walking along the canyon walls—it is definitely an enjoyable place to spend an hour or so.

NBH Tip: When the canyon ends, rather abruptly, simply retrace your steps back to the parking area. From the parking area, you can end your exploration, or set out on another trail—the Hellhole Canyon Trail leaves from this area as well.