Arches National Park, Utah

Balanced Rock: [August 1993, May 2006] An excellent way to appreciate the immense size of this fragile rock formation is to hike the 0.3 mile loop trail that encircles the base. This is a must stop for those visiting Arches National Park.

NBH Tip: If you would like an even better view of Balanced Rock, cross the road at the trail parking lot and make your way up the slickrock—being careful not to step on any plants or cryptobiotic soil, from this vantage point you can appreciate the complete view of Balanced Rock and the surrounding landscape.

 

Windows Loop Trail: [August 1993, May 2006] A gentle climb up this easy 1 mile trail leads to three massive arches—North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch, all of which serve as a great introduction to the awesome landscape of Arches National Park. If you desire the classic picture of Turret Arch, framed by the North Window, you must climb through the window and up the side of a cliff in order to get the right vantage point. The climb is not terribly difficult, just take your time and keep turning around to see where you need to be to see Turret Arch. After exploring the Windows area, continue around the loop to see Turret Arch up close, and then make your way back to the parking lot.

NBH Tip: An alternate return, which is slightly longer than the gravel loop path, is by way of the primitive loop around the back of the two windows—catch the trailhead at the South Window viewpoint. Also, if you can time your hike for sunrise you will have the best light for photographing Turret Arch through North Window.

 

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

Hickman Bridge Trail: [May 2006] The trail to Hickman Bridge, a spectacular 133 foot Kayenta Formation span, follows a moderately strenuous path for a 2 mile roundtrip hike. The formation lies about 1 mile from the trailhead in the heart of Capitol Reef country, and along your hike to the graceful natural bridge you will gain only 400 feet of elevation from your starting elevation of 5,320 feet above sea level. The hike begins by climbing a set of scenic steps cut from the sandstone that borders the Fremont River, the trail then leaves the Riparian environment of tamarisk, willow, and cottonwood trees to enter the desert—note the change in the vegetation. The trail now begins its gentle ascent up the hill towards the bridge, and along the way, at the 0.3 mile mark, you will notice a slight depression in the earth, the remnants of an ancient Fremont pit house. At this point, the trail splits, stay to your left to reach Hickman Bridge. The remainder of the hike to the bridge follows a wash, where you will see interesting rock gardens and small natural bridges called pothole arches; you will also spot a Fremont granary along the right side of the trail. At this point in the hike you should catch your first glimpse of the bridge, just scan the landscape for the fantastic stone work of art. Continue hiking along the trail until you reach the left foot of the bridge, from this vantage point you can gaze up at the massive 133 foot wide structure that stands 125 feet above the canyon floor. We decided this was the perfect spot for a few group photos, so we set up the tripod and gathered under the bridge. After several photo ops, we continued under the bridge for yet another excellent view of the stone arch above the canyon. It was here, as we sat along the rocky ledge, that Sully spotted a Great Basin Gopher Snake slowly making its way across the barren landscape—what an added bonus to our hike! The four of us sat and enjoyed the view and the wildlife for several minutes before reluctantly leaving the bridge to finish the loop. The last portion of the hike takes you to the rim overlooking Fruita, look for the orchard trees far below before winding back to return to the parking lot.

NBH Tip: In order to fully enjoy your hike, donate $0.50 for a self-guiding pamphlet—the guide points out all of the interesting formations found along the trail. The pamphlets are available at both the trailhead and the visitor center.

 

Petroglyph Pullout Walk: [May 2006] The Petroglyph Pullout, located along Utah Highway 24 in Capitol Reef National Park, is a great place to stretch your legs and view some superb examples of prehistoric rock art. From the parking area, a short path leads to the base of the Wingate Sandstone cliff—visible from this viewpoint are some of the most interesting petroglyphs in the southwest. After examining the carvings, from afar of course, take the path that leads to the east and parallels the base of the cliff for about 500 feet—along this boardwalk you will encounter several excellent examples of Freemont rock art, and, if you are visiting at the right time of year, you just might have a few unexpected visitors—bag worms! When we walked this path in May, the little buggers were covering every surface of the boardwalk and the trees above—it was a bit unnerving. Despite the invasion, the walk was enjoyable and the rock art unmatched.

 

 

Escalante State Park, Utah

Petrified Forest Trail/Trail of Sleeping Rainbows: [May 2006] The 1 mile lollipop of the Petrified Forest Trail climbs 250 feet up a forested slope through vast deposits of colorful petrified wood. In addition, the 0.75 mile spur loop Trail of Sleeping Rainbows (located off the lollipop portion of the Petrified Forest Trail) is a must hike for those who want to see museum-quality specimens of the rainbow colored wood. The trailhead can be found off the parking lot near the campground, make your way to this location and then begin your climb (grab a nature guide near the sheltered sign before setting out). The trail heads up the hill, via a couple of switchbacks, until it levels off at an open area that offers good views of Wide Hollow Reservoir—this is a nice place for a few group photos if you are so inclined. If you are following the nature guide you will see that your first sight of petrified wood will come at post 10, located about 0.5 miles down the trail. At this location you will see a large log lying on the ground, this specimen is not very colorful, but take heart—the colors are yet to come on the rainbow spur. Along the way to the spur trail, you will become acquainted with various plant species and other desert formations. Among the more interesting highlights are lichens, the pygmy forest, roundleaf buffalo berry, and desert varnish. There were also several cacti blooming when we hiked the trail, making for a colorful desert display. At post 11 you will have the opportunity to hike the Trail of Sleeping Rainbows—take it! The spur trail is more strenuous than the nature trail, but the reward is worth the effort. Numerous specimens of brightly colored petrified wood are scattered all along the trail, ranging from hand sized to nearly 5 feet across. The highlight of our hike was seeing a tree lizard and a side-blotched lizard basking in the late afternoon sun on one of the most brightly colored pieces of petrified wood—what an incredible sight! After completing the spur trail, you will return to the lollipop portion of the nature trail, and then return to the parking lot for a roundtrip hike of 1.75 miles.

NBH Tip: Many descriptions of the spur trail make it sound more difficult than it actually is, so don’t be discouraged from hiking this trail. The first 0.5 miles is a steep descent down drainage, ending with a 0.2 mile climb back out—an easy trade-off for the great views of the colorful wood.

 

 

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Rim Trail: [May 2006, June 2007] The appropriately named Rim Trail runs 9.5 miles from Yavapai Point to Hermit’s Rest along the South Rim of The Western Grand Canyon, and along the way it offers spectacular views into the canyon. When the shuttle is running, generally from March to October, you can break up your hike by jumping on the free shuttle bus. This sounded like a good idea to us, so we took the shuttle to Maricopa Point and then walked the short distance, a half-mile, to Powell Point. Along the way we enjoyed views of condors soaring above, lizards scurrying about the desert cactus, and of course, the dramatic canyon. Maricopa Point offers up views of the Colorado River far below, and of the abandoned Orphan Mine. Powell Point has a memorial to river runner John Wesley Powell, but this structure pales in comparison to the awe inspiring vista from this overlook. As you make your way to the edge of the canyon you will be amazed by the sweeping vista, if you desire, walk out on the jumble of rocks near the canyon’s edge and relax while taking in the view.

NBH Tip: The Rim Trail is an excellent way to experience hiking at The Grand Canyon without encountering the problems and stress associated with hiking the inner canyon, so take advantage of this scenic trail by hiking the entire 9.5 miles, or any portion that you choose.

Rim Trail revisited:

 

Bright Angel Point: [June 2007] The trail to Bright Angel Point, one of the most spectacular views of the Grand Canyon from the North Rim, is a mere 0.25-mile (0.5-mile roundtrip) hike along a paved path. The short walk to the point exaggerates the effect the Grand Canyon has on its surroundings, particularly evident is the variation in vegetation zones encountered within a very short distance—take note of the transition from cool green forest on the plateau to juniper and pinyon not far below the rim. On flat land, you would have to travel hundreds of miles to see this change, but because of canyon topography the transition is compressed into a few hundred yards. We began our hike to Bright Angel Point just behind the Visitor Center near the Lodge, hiked to the point and then returned along the same path until coming to the intersection where it splits off towards the Grand Canyon Lodge—from the lodge we hiked a portion of the Transept Trail, taking in two superb viewpoints. The hike to Bright Angel Point affords spectacular views of Roaring Springs Canyon to the east and a portion of the Transept Canyon to the west, until finally opening up to a panoramic view of the Grand Canyon and the south rim 10 miles across the canyon. Highlights along Bright Angel Point include views of Roaring Springs, a rockslide in the Transept Canyon, and numerous fossils along the trail. In addition to the expansive views, be sure to enjoy the proximity of the bare, worn and precarious rocks that line the trail—a micro landscape unto themselves. The impressive views from the point and the ease of hiking the short path prompted us to return for sunset—a trail so nice we hiked it twice. If you have the opportunity to hike out to Bright Angel Point for sunset, do not hesitate—watching the canyon walls take on a fiery glow is a remarkable sight.

NBH Tip: As mentioned, it is possible to combine the trail to Bright Angel Point and the Transept Trail, which begins at the lodge and winds along the canyon 1.5 miles to the campground, for a nice long day hike—nearly 4 miles roundtrip is you hike to the point, the campground and back to the lodge.

Return for sunset:

 

Clear Creek Trail: [June 2007] The Clear Creek Trail, 18.4 miles roundtrip, is a great destination for those hikers staying at Phantom Ranch/Bright Angel Campground, located at the bottom of the Grand Canyon—you need not hike the entire 9.2 miles to Clear Creek, as there are several incredible destinations along the way. The first of which lies just 0.75 miles from the trailhead—called the Phantom Ranch Overlook, it affords the hiker with a bird’s eye view of Phantom Ranch and the Bright Angel Creek, 550 feet below. The overlook is reached via several steep switchbacks (gaining 430 feet from the trailhead elevation of 2,650 to the overlook at 3,080 feet), along which we encountered a deer skull that provided for an interesting, albeit macabre, photo opportunity. For those who are looking for a short day hike, the overlook is a great turnaround, but if you are up for a longer trek, keep following the Clear Creek Trail, as the views only get better. As we made our way further down the trail, we came across a distinctive resting bench—located just above the Phantom Ranch Overlook there exists a bench built by the CCC out of the Canyon’s Vishnu Schist—the perfect place for a photo op. After a rest stop at the bench, climb steadily up the long switchbacks towards the base of the Tapeats sandstone—along the way, keep watching for a short spur trail found off the right side of the trail. This hidden side track leads to a magnificent view of the canyon, complete with a panorama of the Colorado River, and views across to the brilliant red rock of the south rim, including the South Kaibab switchbacks—don’t miss it! As you traverse farther eastward you will come to yet another fantastic overlook—surveying the Inner Gorge, the river, the Black Bridge of the South Kaibab Trail, and the Silver Bridge of the Bright Angel Trail. We had planned to hike to this point and turn around, but the views of the Tonto Plateau and Zoroaster Temple drew us beyond—just a little farther. Hugging the rim of Granite Gorge, with cliffs plunging 1,000 feet from the trail to the Colorado River below, views both up and down the canyon are spectacular. Soon, we reached Sumner Wash where Sumner Butte loomed nearly 1,500 feet above to the north—to the northeast, Zoroaster Temple punctures the sky. We finally turned around just shy of the Clear Creek Use Area (reaching an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet), returning to Phantom Ranch along the same route for a roundtrip hike of approximately 5 miles—not bad for a “rest day” at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

NBH Tip: As you hike through the sun-baked varicolored rock layers of the canyon, be prepared to protect yourself from sunburn—carry sunscreen and/or protective clothing. In addition, be sure to carry enough water to keep yourself hydrated.

 

River Trail Loop: [June 2007] The River Trail, sometimes called the Bridge Loop, is a 1.5 mile hike that connects the Black Bridge and the Silver Bridge—the two suspension bridges that span the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon near Phantom Ranch. Pick, Dar, and myself left the Phantom Ranch on the afternoon of our rest day during our rim-to-rim adventure, and set off for the Colorado River to catch the River Trail. Upon reaching the river, we hiked upstream past Boat Beach to the Black Bridge and the South Kaibab Trail. After crossing under the bridge, we made our way to its walkway and crossed the river while wind gusts close to 30 mph sent the bridge swaying in a freaky serpentine-like fashion. Once the three of us were across, we entered the tunnel and emerged onto the dusty world of the South Kaibab Trail. From the tunnel, we climbed the switchbacks towards the start of the River Trail, took a right onto the path and headed downstream. The River Trail hugs the side of the cliff high above the Colorado River, providing magnificent canyon views for the entire distance. Thankfully, the trail follows a gentle downhill grade all the way to the Silver Bridge—a nice way to stay limber if you have an extra day at the bottom. When the trail reaches the Silver Bridge, cross and head back to the north side of the river and your home for the night—a dorm or cabin at Phantom Ranch, or your campsite at Bright Angel Campground.

NBH Tip: Try to time your hike with the setting of the sun, because the canyon walls glow at that time of day and the temperatures are generally much cooler.

 

 

Crescent Moon Ranch Recreation Area, Arizona

Red Rock Crossing: [June 2007] A short hike to Red Rock Crossing, accessed via Crescent Moon Ranch Recreation Area, reveals one of the most photographed scenes in the southwest—Cathedral Rock towering above Oak Creek. Indeed, Cathedral Rock is one of the most photographed landmarks in Arizona—not to mention, Oak Creek is a Mecca for swimmers and picnic toting visitors alike. Therefore, if you want solitude, it is best to hike this path as early or as late as possible—anytime you visit will be rewarding, even if it is crowded. In order to find yourself in the midst of one of the defining symbols of the American West, locate the path that begins at the parking lot and make your way towards Oak Creek—skirting the edge of a riparian environment along the way. Off to the right side of the trail, you will see several footpaths leading down to the waters of Oak Creek (many have footbridges available for crossing a small tributary)—take any of these trails down to the creek and wade as far as you desire upstream towards Cathedral Rock. The Berg and Pick led the way, crossing the small footbridges with ease until all five of us were wading in the cool waters with Cathedral Rock towering above us. The lush green riparian vegetation surrounded by the red rock formations makes for a visually stunning experience—Red Rock Crossing is most definitely a short hike worthy of a visit!

NBH Tip: Although this classic photograph/hike is often viewed as cliché, all of us enjoyed wading and admiring the view and of course photographing the scene. Unfortunately, time constraints did not allow us to stay until sunset—when the rocks are best lit, but the photos are still worthy. If you are able to make it happen, time your visit for late afternoon or suns